Visit The City With Interesting History – Medellín

The city of Medellín and especially its Comuna 13 neighbourhood was until relatively recently one of the most dangerous cities and neighbourhoods in the world. This was because of the drug trade and the wars between paramilitary and guerrilla groups and the government. It was here that Pablo Escobar, arguably the world’s most famous drug baron, originated.

Today, on the other hand, Medellín is considered one of the most innovative cities in Latin America, so it’s not just this history that you can remember on the now-safe city tours.

Medellín is also nestled among the mountains at an altitude of 1,445 metres above sea level, making it an ideal starting point for outdoor excursions, whether on foot or by bicycle.

How to get to Medellín

In Colombia you can easily travel by local buses, which run very frequently between large and small towns. To find the most reliable connection visit https://www.redbus.co/en. Here you can find the departure point, the timetable, the price and the duration of the journey.

You will always arrive in Medellín at either Terminal del Norte or Terminal del Sur. From these terminals, you can then easily get to your accommodation using the UBER app or by taxi.

If you arrive in Medellín by plane, you can get to the city centre by bus, which runs between the airport terminal and the San Diego Shopping Centre. The stop at the mall is on Calle 36. The service is operated by Combuses. You will pay only COP 13,000 for the ticket and you will reach the centre in 40 minutes. From the mall to the hotel, you can then use UBER or taxi again.

Accommodation

The best place to stay in Medellín is the modern district in the city centre called El Poblado. We personally tried accommodation at the Cocobamboo Hotel. The hotel is newly renovated and the rooms are spacious and clean. The Wi-Fi works great and if you need space to work, the outdoor seating area will definitely make you happy. You’ll pay 90,000 COP for a night for two here. There’s also a well-equipped shared kitchen. You can book online at www.booking.com or call +57 311 714 2395.

If for some reason you don’t want to stay in the centre, look for accommodation in the quiet and safe Laureles neighbourhood.

What to definitely visit in Medellín

Comuna 13

The most interesting neighbourhood in the city is definitely the infamous Comuna 13. Even locals were afraid to go to this neighbourhood in its heyday.

This poor part of the city used to be a transshipment point for weapons and drugs. It was home to several guerrilla and paramilitary groups. Kidnappings and murders were commonplace. However, after several military operations and huge investments, the government and the locals managed to transform the neighbourhood into a safe zone full of art and relaxed restaurants and cafés.

Graffiti adorns the local streets, young people perform their dance routines and hip hop concerts are held on every corner. This is a place not to be missed when visiting Medellín.

How to get to Comuna 13

From the city centre you can get here by metro. Poblado Station is a 20-minute walk from our recommended hotel. Here you must purchase a card, which you then use to top up your ticket credit as needed. You can buy everything both in the vending machine and at the service window. The card costs COP 6,000, one ride anywhere in the city costs COP 2,930.

The big advantage is that the same ticket is valid for cable car rides, which always start at a metro station. So for one fare you can take both the metro and the cable car. From Poblado station, you must first go to San Antonio station, where you change to the B metro line and reach the final station, San Javier. It is at this station that one of the cable cars starts, so it is recommended that you transfer straight to the cable car and ride over the less safe parts of Comuna 13 first.

You can sit in the cable car the whole time and actually do a sort of circular ride that takes about 40 minutes. Once you get back to the metro station, take the only exit out, take a left and follow the signs that say Escaleras. After about 25 minutes, you’ll reach the main part of Comuna 13, where you’ll find the famous escalators that contributed greatly to the transformation of Comuna 13.

Right by the metro station you can also purchase the services of a local guide who will tell you a lot about the history of the neighborhood, explain the importance of Graffita and share many interesting local facts.

Valle de la Miel trek

For the more adventurous, we have a treat in the form of a trek through the Valle de la Miel. The trail starts at the former La Catedral prison, which Pablo Escobar had built for himself, in agreement with the government.

IMPORTANT!

We must point out at the outset that the route is not well signposted. In many places there are ropes that you have to climb down, and part of the route goes through the river. It is therefore a rather difficult descent into the valley, and there are several places where you risk going off the trail. Only go here if you already have some experience with more challenging routes, and especially if you have a very good sense of direction. However, the reward for this difficulty will be the unique views of the valley, a visit to several waterfalls and at the end the feeling that you have done it all :-).

The route is only 4.5 km long, but it will take you almost five hours to complete. That alone says that this is not an easy walk.

How to get to La catedral

At Poblado station, take the metro again, this time going in the other direction from Comuna 13. Get off at the station called Envigado.

If you want to go to La Catedral by bus, you have to be here at 5am, there is no later bus service, so you have to use the Taxi service outside the metro station at later hours. The taxi ride to La Catedral costs 40,000 COP. You may run into other travelers at the metro who are going to La Catedral, so it may be possible to arrange to share the taxi ride with someone.

Much of La Catedral Prison is now occupied by Benedictine monks, so it cannot be visited. However, the vicinity of the prison will tell you a lot about the history of the place.

From the prison, take the only route to the village of Arenales. Once you get here, you can have a snack in one of the small restaurants overlooking the valley and then walk to the bus stop from where there is already a regular service throughout the day back to Envigado metro station. When you board the bus, you use the same card as for the metro, plus pay the driver an extra 300 COP in cash. So keep in mind that you need to have credit on your card for one extra ride. The actual visit to these places is free, there is no entrance fee anywhere.

Parque Arví

If you don’t feel like doing this more demanding trek, we have a more comfortable option for you. Parque Arví is a popular location for locals. They come here on weekends for picnics, sports, cycling, and especially for nature walks.

The park is located in the mountains above the city of Medellín and you have to go there by cable car. First, at Poblado station, take the metro to Acevedo station, here you can take the cable car to Santo Domingo. Up to this station you will have one metro ticket. However, it is here that you have to change to another cable car to Parque Arví and pay the extra fare, which in this case costs COP 11,150. The whole journey from the centre takes about 45 minutes.

Admission to the park is free, but you can also take a paid guided tour. There are several themed trails throughout the area, where you can learn a lot of information about the plants, animals and archaeological finds in the area from the signs. It is up to you which trail you choose.

Pablo Escobar

Are you a fan of Narcos? Now watch out.

It may be a bit controversial, but Pablo Escobar has made a major impact on the history of Colombia, which is why we were interested in this history on the spot.

As well as visiting Comuna 13, you can visit the aforementioned La Catedral prison, the house where Pablo Escobar was shot, the neighbourhood he built for the poor residents, and two museums that commemorate his “fame”.

However, only one of them is interesting, the one run by his brother, Roberto Escobar. This gentleman was a co-founder of the Medellín Cartel and has already served his time in prison. A bomb exploded in his face, leaving him almost blind and deaf.

You can meet him in person at his museum. Yes, in this case you actually go directly to the drug criminals’ homes and support them with your visit. It is definitely not good. But if you really want to find out about this history this is where you can learn first hand. It’s definitely worth it.

You will pay 100,000 COP to enter the museum. The guide will tell you a lot of information you had no idea about with a completely independent view. He will take you through the house that Pablo Escobar bought with the first money he earned from selling drugs. You’ll see with your own eyes the objects from this period that Pablo himself owned.

It’s definitely a controversial visit, and not everyone will agree with it. Believe us you’ll leave here with a very interesting feeling and a lot of information you won’t find anywhere else.

The museum is located not far from our recommended hotel, and is a 20-minute walk away. You’ll find it on maps under the name Casa Roberto Escobar Gaviria. The tour itself then takes around an hour.

Tips for visiting Medellín

There are several resting spots along the trails in Parque Arví. We recommend heading out before lunch and taking something good with you for a picnic in the countryside. The setting is really beautiful here, it’s definitely worth spending more time and exploring the trails.

Medellín is literally a paradise for vegans and vegetarians. Prices in restaurants are a bit higher compared to other places in Colombia, but trust me, you won’t regret it. From our own experience we can recommend Veg Station, Taco Veg, Lenteja Express, Vegan & Veggie or AMA – Restaurante Vegano.

What to look out for in Medellín

Medellín may be considered an innovative and safe city today, but not all parts of it are. Even in the El Poblado district you’ll find places like Lleras Park where you need to be careful. Ideally not linger at night at all. Tourist muggings are still a daily occurrence here. Especially in the night bars, it’s not worth staying too long.

Don’t stand out with fancy clothes and expensive items. Always find out first from the locals where you can safely go as a tourist. If something happens, don’t resist and hand everything over. Of course, leave valuables at the hotel.

If you want to visit La Catedral Prison, bear in mind that there is no public transport from there. It is also almost impossible to take a taxi. The only way out is on foot to the village of Arenales. If you only want to visit the prison arrange with the taxi driver you arrive with to wait for you.